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Chinon Blanc Le Côteau de Sonnay Domaine Fabrice Gasnier 2022 DE
Tasting Notes: The grapes were grown on a biodynamically farmed 0.7-hectare parcel of rich argilo-calcaire soil that slopes gradually down to the Vienne, and the wine fermented and matured on th... e lees for fourteen months in two barriques and a 600-liter demi-muid, yielding a total of 116 cases. In the glass, this beautiful Chinon Blanc has a radiant, green-golden straw color. Dried honeycomb, green apples, lemongrass, and cardamom pods move in and out of the foreground, sometimes alternating with aromatic suggestions of crushed seashells, fresh tarragon, orange blossoms, and tangerine oil, as the nose develops over time. On the palate, the wine is bright, multi-layered, and electrifying (“dynamisé,” Fabrice calls it), with a solid vibrant core of white orchard fruit that puts on weight over time, and is buttressed by palpable saline minerality and refreshing acidity. Drink now-2030 and beyond. This is another reminder that fine Chenin Blanc from the weathered tuffeau of the middle Loire Valley is a worthy peer of Riesling, Nebbiolo, and Pinot Noir, in the pantheon of the noblest grape varieties of all. Read More
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When we last visited Fabrice Gasnier at his home in Cravant-les-Coteaux, he had long completed the transformation of his 24-hectare estate to biodynamics, the agricultural discipline based on the teachings of Rudolph Steiner, who is best known today as the founder of the Waldorf Schools. “Biodynamics, according to Fabrice, “seeks to strengthen the vitality and resistance of plants, by improving natural exchanges. It also makes the vine receptive in the cosmos, to the lunar effect. Thus, the expression of the terroir in the grapes is optimized and is found in the wines. Biodynamic wines guarantee a good expression of the terroir.” The entire domaine received both “Ecocert” and “Demeter” certification in 2008.
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The Loire River runs 635 miles from the Cévennes Mountains in southeastern France to the Atlantic Coast and flows through (or near) over 60 different appellations. During its long history, the hillsides along the banks provided well-drained soils on which to grow grapes, and the river itself provided a transportation network to outside markets. Chinon was the home of Henry Plantagenet, Count of Anjou in the 12th Century when he was crowned King of England. He ruled England from Chinon Castle and introduced the local wine to the English court, ensuring a ready market. Even then, the vineyards were ancient. During the Rennaissance, Rabelais published his satirical works that contained joyous reference to the wines of his hometown, Chinon. Cabernet Franc (locally referred to as Breton) is the primary grape of the region which also grows Cabernet Sauvignon and small plantings of Chenin Blanc for the rare whites.
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Chenin Blanc is ancient, and recent DNA profiling suggests that it is one of the "parents" of Sauvignon Blanc. The first known written mention is from the abbey at Glanfeuil (the first Benedictine monastery in what is now France) where notes speak of the grape growing on the left bank of the river. Also known as Pineau de la Loire, the grape can produce wines that range from bone-dry to unctuously sweet. The fruit aromatics are often compared to quince and red apples.
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Goat cheeses, crudité, and butter-laced seafood preparations (Coquille St. Jacques!) work very well with this wine.
