This beautiful dry white wine comes from a 0.34-hectare parcel of 40-year-old Pinot Blanc (field blended with 30% Pinot Auxerrois) located on the lower slope of the Rosenberg, where the sandy clay and limestone soil encourages the development of exotic, almost honeyed orchard fruit aromatics. The grapes were hand-harvested, fermented on the native yeast, and matured on the primary lees in 600-liter barrels for 11 months. In the glass, the wine has a beautiful, limpid yellow gold color. Aromas of Cavaillon melons, fresh cream, and crystallized honey, along with more fleeting suggestions of dried pineapple, orange blossoms, and macadamias, move in and out of the foreground as the nose evolves in the glass. On the palate, the wine is dry, with a sumptuous, creamy texture, with layered flavors that echo the nose, all seasoned with the exotic saline minerality that is characteristic of Maxime’s brilliant 2020 vintage. Drink now–2030
About this wine producer: In 1985 Geneviève (Buecher) and François Barmès formed their domaine from the combined land of their families, who had owned vines in the Alsatian town of Wettolsheim since the 17th century. François Barmès wholeheartedly embraced the Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner’s belief in the interdependence of the forces of life, earth, and the cosmos. So in 1995, in order to undo the damage caused by decades of chemically dependent viticulture, he began the transformation of his vineyards to biodynamics. Today his son Maxime carries on with the same commitment to grow the most exciting, terroir-expressive wines in Alsace, taking the discipline of biodynamics a step further: now, whenever possible, he uses a horse in the vineyards instead of a tractor.