The Château Larroque coats the glass with its deep, black-centered ruby color, like the color of a young, ripe-vintage Pomerol, and the nose unfurls gradually with aromas of ripe griotte cherries, spiced black plums, and what I imagine chocolate covered black currants would smell like, alternating with crushed violets, fresh garden sage, and dried autumn leaves as the wine evolves in the glass. On the palate, the wine is juicy, supple, and concentrated, with a luscious core of sweet red and black fruit that echoes the nose, all seasoned with fresh white tobacco, lots of freshly grated nutmeg, cinnamon, and raw cacao; elegantly punctuated by silky, ripe, fine-grained tannins. Arguably the greatest wine ever at Château Larroque. Drink now–2030.
About this wine producer: There are five hectares of vines (along with seventy-five hectares of cereals, sunflowers, and pasturage) at this ancient polyculture farm in Sainte Christie, in the heart of Armagnac country. Pascal Bozzi renovated the original sixteenth-century cellar fifteen years ago, and with the help of his enologist cousin Stéphane Beuret, grows about 2000 cases of the most elegant red wine in all of the Côtes de Gascogne.
Stéphane Beuret is best known for his work at the University of Bordeaux, where he won the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux Grand Prix in 1998, and we know him as the consulting enologist at Château Brûlesécaille, one of our favorite estates in the Côtes de Bourg. His meticulous cellar work at Château Larroque, which includes aging the wine for twelve months in a mix of used barrels that he now buys from his best clients in Bordeaux, along with Pascal’s impeccable organic farming (manure from his own Aubrac beef cattle enriches the compost), results in a unique red wine that puts many more expensive Bordeaux to shame.