First, remember that this limpid, platinum-gold wine is fine Burgundy, so use a large well-shaped glass and don’t overfill it. And pay special attention to the wine in the first minute or two: this is a textbook example of a wine that evolves in the glass after it’s poured. The classic nose unfurls with aromas of white peaches, Golden Delicious apples, toasted wheat germ, and raw honeycomb, along with more fleeting suggestions of wild fennel, golden honey figs, and almond blossoms, as the wine evolves in the glass. On the palate, creamy and elegant mineral-saturated Chardonnay flavors, including Asian pears, crème brûlée, and ripe honeydew echo the nose. The overall impression is one of sunny, mineral opulence. Drink now for the wine’s luscious primary fruit, or lay away in your own cool dark cellar for five years or more, if you can wait that long.
About this wine producer: When André Bonhomme took over the family vineyards in 1956, he immediately quit selling the grapes in bulk to the local cooperative, exasperating his father, and alienating his neighbors. Setting out to bottle his own wine meant investing in winery equipment, buying bottles and corks, and finding his own customers. But being the first estate-bottler in the Maconnais had a long-term advantage: he was able to get a good, first-hand look at individual wines from unique vineyard sites, and by experiment to learn which vineyards produced the best grapes. By selling his wine in bottle rather than in bulk he was able to earn enough to quietly assemble a patchwork of the best vineyards in the region. Aurélien Palthey, André Bonhomme’s grandson, is the current director of the domaine, and he holds the reins of a cultural monument – one of the greatest estates in Burgundy.