This super-elegant Pinot Noir comes from a tiny parcel of 60-year-old vines in “Le Creux de la Net,” the smallest of the five Premiers Crus of Pernand-Vergelesses, which is located just south of the village on a slope of terres blanches that faces the hill of Corton. In the glass, the wine has a saturated, deep garnet red center, with flashes of cobalt at the edge. When the wine is first poured, aromas of griotte cherries, pomegranate, hibiscus, and brown mushrooms emerge from the glass. Later, sun-warmed red plums, strawberry preserves, and cocoa are joined by marzipan, eucalyptus, and sage, as the vital, complex nose evolves in the glass. On the palate, the wine is sleek and elegant, with a dense core of complex sweet black and red fruit seasoned with freshly grated nutmeg, which fans out like a peacock’s tail, and is framed in round, velvety, ultrafine tannins and refreshing minerality. Drink now–2035.
About this wine producer: Classic, real-world-priced, estate-bottled Burgundy is always a happy surprise. The land is expensive, the climate is unreliable, and demand usually exceeds supply. But if you’re willing to look beyond the famous villages on the Route des Grands Crus, there are still discoveries to be made: expressive Burgundies, white and red, grown by passionate stewards of the genuine Burgundian tradition. The Cornu family has lived in Echevronne, about seven kilometers northwest of Beaune, since the thirteenth century. Pierre Cornu joined his parents in the late 1970s, and like so many of the best of his generation, was the first in his family to estate-bottle the wine. In 1981 he married Bernadette Camus, and in 2007, after completing her studies in enology at Beaune, their daughter Lydia, along with her husband Christophe Pertuzot (previously of Domaine Leroy), joined them as co-gerants, ensuring the continuity of this dynamic ten-hectare estate.