The elegant, dry Riesling “von der Fels” 2020 has a deep, irresistible nose, with aromas of ripe blood orange, lemongrass, dried chamomile, and fleeting suggestions of freshly grated ginger and sweet wood smoke, all moving in and out of the foreground as the wine evolves in the glass. On the palate, generous, creamy, and endlessly complex flavors of ripe ruby grapefruit, Meyer lemon, and wild mint are wrapped in a vibrant combination of palpable dry extract, almost salty mineral intensity, and crystalline transparency. This is a flat-out great Keller Riesling, made all the more special in this anniversary vintage by the addition of two barrels of Abtserde, and one each of Morstein, Kirchspiel and Hubacker. Drink now – 2035 and beyond.
About this wine producer: Klaus-Peter Keller has inspired a renaissance of viniculture in the Hügelland, where the Benedictines of the Kloster Lorch grew some of the most prestigious wines in the Rheinland, in vineyards that were forgotten after the French Revolution. His stunning dry Rieslings have been called “the German Montrachets” by Jancis Robinson, MW, the brilliant editor of The Oxford Companion to Wine. But his noble sweet wines are no less well received. In fact, Keller has won the Gault Millau “Best of Germany” award in both categories. “If I had to name the best producer in Germany today, it would be Klaus‐Peter Keller, wrote Steven Tanzer, the world’s stingiest wine critic. “Everything he touches turns to gold.” Though lionized by the journalists as the greatest winegrower of his generation, Klaus-Peter is quick to point out that “great wine would not be possible here, if it weren’t for these great limestone soils. It’s only that someone had to remember the old tradition and just make good wine.”