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Many of the vines were planted 70 years ago in the decomposing granite and schist at the top of the Côte du Py, the most famous of the six named vineyards within Morgon. Just imagine how deep an old vine’s roots can dig into that friable layer through the mountain’s stone searching for moisture—and imagine the menu of mineral salts the sunken water table conveys to the fruit it nurtures.
In the glass, this nearly opaque wine shines a majestic, blue-edged violet. Dark berries dominate the nose, with brambly blackberries sharing airspace along wild blueberries and Bing cherries. There’s a faint floral note, too—a whiff of lilac and lavender—along with undeniable schist-and-granite-stoniness.
On the palate, the bright blackberries carry through, freshened even further by the acidity and fine-grained tannins of good, strong, black tea.
About this wine producer: The original family estate consisted of these two hectares of weathered schist in “Javernières” on the Côte du Py, an undisputed Grand Cru (if the vineyards of Beaujolais had ever been classified). In 1970, Patrick’s father, Robert Brunet, purchased four more hectares of sandy granite, in a climat appropriately named “Champagne,” located in the heart of Fleurie. “Champagne” had been planted in 1930, and along with the tiny parcel of “Javernières” made Robert Brunet the proprietor of two of the finest vineyards in all of Beaujolais. Regrettably, Robert died suddenly when Patrick was only eighteen, so the choice Patrick faced was stark: let his mother rent out the vineyards so he could stay in school, or take over the estate at the age of eighteen. Naturally, he chose the latter, and never looked back.
$21.00