In the glass, the Berzamì 2019 has a saturated, dark red-purple color, almost fuschia at the edge. The aromatics are pure, dark frutti di bosco: ripe amarena cherries, raspberry jam, fresh black plums, and crushed violets emerge when the wine is first poured, adding cinnamon stick, coriander, orange zest and fading peonies, as the nose evolves in the glass. On the palate, the wine has a concentrated, expansive core of red and black fruit flavors that echo the nose (“you can taste the seeds,” according to our colleague Joe DiLuzio), and seem to be bathed in the finest extra-virgin olive oil, giving the wine an almost creamy texture. with iron red-clay minerality and fine green walnut tannins that punctuate a long floral finish. Wow!
About this wine producer: The estate was established as a mixed-cultivation subsistence farm in the early 1900s by Davide Lazzari’s great-grandfather, who raised livestock and grew cereals, along with a few rows of Marzemino and Sangiovese that supplied a small restaurant operated by his wife. Davide’s grandfather, Fausto, who prefers white wine, added Turbiana to the mix of vines (watch this space), and his father, Giovanni, and his uncle, Dario, began estate-bottling the wine twenty years ago. Today, Società Agricola Lazzari is a certified organic farm, and is far and away the top winegrowing estate in Capriano del Colle. Led by young Davide Lazzari, who understands his role in the stewardship of Capriano del Colle, and as the leader of the renaissance of viticulture in this emerging DOC, the estate is bringing long overdue attention to this tiny corner of Lombardia.