In the glass, this stunning wine has a deep, saturated, beet purple color, with electric flashes of bright violet at the edge. The exotic, compelling nose is like a huge garden in bloom, with intoxicating aromas of dried lavender, black raspberries, fragrant irises, and freshly sanded cedar moving in and out of the foreground, along with fleeting suggestions of amarena cherries, ruby oolong tea, and hibiscus. On the palate, the wine is keenly focused and nimble, with juicy, dark fruit flavors that echo the nose, including warm spiced mulberries and tart red cherries, along with dried orange zest and cardamom, all delicately framed in ripe dusty tannins. This is a perfect example of the many rare local wines of Italy that are experiencing a renaissance (there were only two acres of Lacrima in the 1980s), and an ideal red wine for seafood, like stoccafiso, the fish stew of Ancona based on cod.
About this wine producer: Giorgio Brunori’s decision to bottle his wines and open an enoteca in Jesi changed the face of wine in Ancona Province. The Brunoris, like every other family, sold their fruit in bulk, to be turned into the watery, bland wine sold in kitschy, fish-shaped bottles to tourists visiting the seashore. But Giorgio knew his farming deserved a better audience, so along with his son Mario, he began to estate bottle their harvest in 1956. And the bottled wines brought notice from renowned wine writers Luigi Veronelli and Victor Hazan, whose glowing reviews turned the world’s attention to Georgio’s wines. Now his grandchildren, Carlo and Cristina, hold the reins at Azienda Brunori. The story is a familiar one at Moore Brothers: like André Bonhomme, another iconoclastic winegrower who was the first in his area to estate bottle his wines, the Brunori family is our favorite kind of producer.