From an old sandy parcel near Romanèche-Thorins, the grapes are hand-harvested and destemmed, then fermented in a mix of stainless steel and queues bourguignonnes (double barriques), of which 10% are new. In the glass, the wine has a cool, dark ruby color that warms to red tinged fuchsia at the edge. Aromas of smoky griotte cherries, fresh ripe cranberries, and wild blueberries move in and out of the foreground, sometimes alternating with wild mushrooms, charcouterie, and freshly cut hay as the nose evolves in the glass. On the palate, the wine tastes “Pinoté” (more like Pinot Noir than Gamay), and grows more voluminous with time in the glass: sleek, focused, transparent, and vibrant, with a sweet core of flavors that echo the nose, including sun warmed black raspberries, dried tarragon, Earl Grey tea, and cardamom. If you didn’t know that this was a Moulin à Vent, you’d be excused if you mistook it for one of Louis Boillot’s elegant, silky Volnays.
About this wine producer: Louis Boillot’s seven-hectare estate is half of the original Domaine Lucien Boillot of Gevrey-Chambertin. In 2002, the domaine was split equally between Louis and his brother Pierre, who continues operations at Domaine Lucien Boillot. But in 2003, shortly after their father’s retirement, Louis left the winery in Gevrey, and with his wife, Ghislaine Barthod, a famous and highly respected winegrower in her own right, purchased a lovely old house with a perfect, functional cellar in Chambolle-Musigny. Today, Ghislaine Barthod and Louis Boillot make their wines side by side in the same cellar. Both have unusually old vines; Ghislaine’s vineyards all in Chambolle-Musigny, and Louis’ in eight communes stretching the entire length of the Côte, from Fixin through Gevrey-Chambertin, all the way south to Volnay. Their son Clément will one day inherit a combined domaine that will be one of the greatest in all of Burgundy.
I recognize the quality but Gamay is just not my favorite