In a good large glass (and not too, too cold), this elegant, just off-dry Mosel Riesling unfurls with aromas of sun-warmed Red Haven peaches, yellow mangoes, and lemongrass, along with fleeting suggestions of crystallized honeycomb, Italian parsley, and toasted pine nuts, all moving in and out of the foreground as the nose evolves in the glass. On the palate the wine is generous, muscular, and dense, with flavors of grilled pineapple, ripe cantaloupe, grated ginger and Meyer lemon unfolding like a peacock’s tail in a vibrant combination of crystalline transparency and palpable saline mineral intensity, as if the wine had somehow liquified the slate of the Winninger Domgarten itself. The overall impression is one of fine creamy elegance, with just enough playful berry acidity to keep you coming back for more.
About this wine producer: Andreas von Canal is the grandson of the last Freiherr von Heddesdorff. His family has grown Riesling in Winningen since 1454, on steep, terraced vineyards near the confluence of the Mosel and the Rhine, just upriver from Koblenz. The estate includes two hectares of the Winninger Uhlen, one of the steepest vineyards in Germany, and small parcels in the Brückstück, Röttgen, and Domgarten (the Archbishop’s Garden). His four hectares of slate vineyards, all planted with the Riesling grape, located at the confluence of the Mosel and the Rhein always give well-extracted, spicy and bright wines.