In the glass, the wine has a saturated, deep yellow-gold color, with flashes of green-gold at the edge. Aromas of sun-warmed white peaches, ripe Persian melons, dried honeycomb, and almond blossoms emerge at first, then alternate with suggestions of Asian pears, lemon curd, and toasted pine nuts as the nose evolves in the glass.
On the palate, the wine is juicy and full-bodied, with plenty of dry extract, deep saline minerality, and ripe tartaric acidity. The layered sweet core of almond butter, marzipan, and dried mango flavors is seasoned with delicate bitterness, and the long elegant finish is punctuated with fine mineral grip. Drink now – 2025 and beyond (one of my last bottles of the 1997(!), which I shared with colleagues and friends in Pennsauken only three weeks ago, was delicious – toasted almond nutty, ripe and honeyed, yet juicy and fresh, just as predicted by Mario Brunori when I bought the case in 1999).
About this wine producer: Giorgio Brunori’s decision to bottle his wines and open an enoteca in Jesi changed the face of wine in Ancona Province. The Brunoris, like every other family, sold their fruit in bulk, to be turned into the watery, bland wine sold in kitschy, fish-shaped bottles to tourists visiting the seashore. But Giorgio knew his farming deserved a better audience, so along with his son Mario, he began to estate bottle their harvest in 1956. And the bottled wines brought notice from renowned wine writers Luigi Veronelli and Victor Hazan, whose glowing reviews turned the world’s attention to Georgio’s wines. Now his grandchildren, Carlo and Cristina, hold the reins at Azienda Brunori. The story is a familiar one at Moore Brothers: like André Bonhomme, another iconoclastic winegrower who was the first in his area to estate bottle his wines, the Brunori family is our favorite kind of producer.
Brunori used cheap cork, most bottles were spoiled.