Located on southern facing slopes of the river Cher in the heart of the Touraine district (southeast and about 20km from Tours), Vincent Ricard now farms seventeen hectares planted mostly to Sauvignon Blanc, with parcels of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Gamay. The farming is organic, incorporating practices taken from the discipline of biodynamics, which Vincent encountered during a stage with François Chidaine in Montlouis, and the entire harvest is bottled at the estate.
Cuvée les Trois Chênes comes from a parcel of Sauvignon Blanc planted in 1950 on a south-facing slope of sand and flint. The winemaking is exacting: fermentation for twelve weeks in a mix of new and used barriques, and aging on the lees with frequent batonnage for eight more months. The wood contributes texture, but nothing to distract from the pure green apple, boxwood, and wet stone aromatics, and is completely integrated with the grapefruit peel, Asian pear, and bitter honey on the palate.
Regional History
The Loire River runs 635 miles from the Cévennes Mountains in southeastern France to the Atlantic Coast and flows through (or near) over 60 different appellations. During its long history, the hillsides along the banks provided well-drained soils on which to grow grapes, and the river itself provided a transportation network to outside markets.
The Appellation Touraine has always existed in the shadow of its more famous neighbors, Sancerre, Vouvray, and Pouilly-Fumé. Economics seemed to have played a key role in suppressing the market for the region’s wine – the vineyards are further away from the Loire River where commerce has always been livelier.
The white wines are generally Sauvignon or Chenin Blanc, and the land is calcareous, rich in chalk and flint. The wines tend to be brightly scented and crisp, but in most areas production is left to a village cooperative. The best are always from the small farms who have the courage to “estate” bottle their wines.
Regional Foods
The lower half of the Loire River, the longest in France, runs through more than forty wine appellations, among them Touraine, Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume, Vouvray, Chinon, Saumur, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, and Muscadet. This broad valley, noted for its big skies and big chateaux, doesn’t boast an indigenous cuisine. Nevertheless, the rich soil and the varied landscape provide a bounty of raw materials for a cook.
Diverse livestock are raised on local farms; the Atlantic coast and the river itself supply plentiful fish; vegetables and grains are harvested from the large, well-tended kitchen gardens seen everywhere.
So one drinks Muscadet with Atlantic oysters and pike au beurre blanc, Vouvray with friture de la loire (fried freshwater fish) or pork rillettes. Rillons, little fists of pork belly, might be enjoyed with a glass of Montlouis or Touraine blanc.
The reds of Chinon and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil often accompany jugged hare, pork with prunes or venison. Restaurants offer baked cod, escargot, frog’s legs and freshwater fish pate with Pouilly-Fume.
© 2007 Moore Brothers Wine Company