steeger st. jost riesling halbtrocken weingut ratzenberger 2005
ByThe Ratzenberger family moved to the Mittelrhein from East Germany in the fifties, and young Jochen Ratzenberger first began to make wine in 1994. His 8-hectare estate, west and north of the town of Bacharach, comprises three steep vineyards of blue-black Devon slate: Steeger St. Jost, Posten, and Wolfshöhle. This halbtrocken is dry Rhein Riesling of sumptuous fruit flavors (tangerine, peaches, ruby red grapefruit), soft acidity, and sweet petrol, mineral and spicy flavors imparted by the unforgivingly steep slopes of the St. Jost vineyard.
Regional History
Viticulture in Germany is mentioned by the Stoic philosopher Posidonius of Rhodes (135-51 BC), who wrote, “…the {Germans} drink a lot of undiluted wine…”
It’s known that the Romans first planted many of Germany’s finest vineyard sites. With the rise of the early Christian church, the vine had been intimately intertwined with religious and secular history. Charlemagne supported winemaking directly with vine planting projects and indirectly, by his support and encouragement of monastic orders. By the late 18th century, it was the Church which was responsible for quality controls such as laws against the adulteration of wines, replacement of lesser-known varietals with the noble Riesling grape, and the custom of distinguishing certain vineyard sites as being superior.
Bacharach and Steeg were two of the most important markets in Germany as far back as the 15th century when Pope Pius II had giant casks of Bacharach wine sent to Rome each year. The small hamlet of Steeg, which lies just behind Bacharach, is home to the celebrated Sankt Jost vineyard. This is a steep slope of blue Devon slate planted to Pinot Noir (near the bottom of the hill), and is the source of the best trocken and halbtrocken Riesling on the higher slopes.
Regional Foods
The lighter German wines are excellent with classic regional dishes such as wiener schnitzel, spaetzle (noodles) in butter or delicate cream sauce & kudlen (dumplings). The heavier Spätlese & dry or off-dry Auslese wines are excellent with fish (including sushi & sashimi), poultry, and other white meat dishes. This wine in particular is outstanding with smoked fish. German wines pair well with reduction sauces having an edge of caramelization and the addition of cream or crème fraiche. German wines are naturally well suited to cut through the edge of sweetness and fat from these elegant sauces. In contrast, garlic-laden, tomato-based sauces and olive-oil preparations combat the delicate aromas and texture of most German wines.