langhe bianco riesling hérzu ettore germano 2007
ByIn 1990, Sergio Germano returned from oenology school to his family’s six hectares in Serralunga d’Alba. As a fourth-generation wine grower – in a part of Barolo where most farmers sold their grapes to Fontanafredda, the largest negociant in the region – Sergio moved their entire production to estate vinification and bottling within two years.
Today, with nearly 11 hectares on and around the cru Cerretta, he remains one of only a handful of artisan producers in Serralunga.
The Langhe appellation is Piedmont’s open appellation, equivalent to IGT in Tuscany, and this freedom, in Sergio’s hands, has produced some exciting wine. For example, this Riesling is dense, vibrant, and earthy…and completely unexpected. It’s dry and powerful, with a long life ahead in a cool, dark cellar.
Regional History
The wines of Piemonte are noted as far back as Pliny’s Natural History. Due to geographic and political isolation, Piemonte was without a natural port for most of its history, which made exportation treacherous and expensive. This left the Piemontese with little incentive to expand production. Sixteenth-century records show a mere 14% of the Bassa Langa under vine – most of that low-lying and farmed polyculturally.
In the nineteenth century the Marchesa Falletti, a Frenchwoman by birth, brought eonologist Louis Oudart from Champagne to create the first dry wines in Piemonte. Along with work in experimental vineyards at Castello Grinzane conducted by Camilo Cavour – later Conte di Cavour, leader of the Risorgimento and first Prime Minister of Italy – this was the birth of modern wine in the Piedmont.
The appellations of Langhe Bianco and Langhe Rosso were created in the 1993 revision to the DOC regulations. It is an open appellation that encompasses most of Alba and the Roero and allows liberal blending of traditional varietals and measured use of non-traditional varietals without aging requirements.
Regional Foods
Piedmontese cuisine is heavily influenced by French culture; rich foods with béchamel, mayonnaise, and reduction sauces are often featured.
The cuisine is highly localized and seasonal – vegetable varieties are abundant in the south-bordering Liguria. Piemonte has its own distinct breed of cow descended from the Auroch and Zebu breeds. Their distinctly flavored beef is unique and often served as “carpaccio.”, braised or roasted.
Regional pastas include tagliatelle and ravioli stuffed with local vegetables, cheese and meats.
White truffles are the most famous and expensive regional specialty, and are often shaved over appetizers or served à la carte in thin slices. Typical cheeses include Castelmangno, Gorgonzola, Fontal, Fontina, Bra and Robiola-Piedmontese.
© 2008 Moore Brothers Wine Company