The Mas de Libian has been a working farm (cereals, fruits and vines), remaining in the same family since 1670.
Hélène Thibon, a remarkably young, energetic member of the family took over the viticulture and winemaking in 1995, and convinced her family to “estate bottle” the wines rather than sell to local négociants.
Her farming is entirely organic, and the vines (averaging 40-45 years-old) are pruned for low yields and concentration.
Her terraced vineyards in St-Marcel d’Ardèche (the west bank of the Rhône) provide stunning views of Mont Ventoux, the Appilles, and the Dentelles de Montmirail.
The cuvée “Bout d’Zan” is from younger vines, vinified to showcase the perfumed aromatics of the Grenache grape (which represents about 85% of the blend).
Regional History
Phocaean Greeks established viticulture in the Rhône as far back as 600 BC, but until the 14th century the wines were not seen outside the region.
The establishment of the Avignonese Papacy (1305-1377) brought fame to the region’s wine-so much so that their Burgundian neighbors to the north banned wines from the Rhône in 1446, a measure that effectively cut off trade with England and other Northern European markets for over 200 years.
Stretching southward from Lyon to Avignon, the Rhône produces a wide variety of wines, with the appellations north of Valence producing the least (in volume), and the towns south of Montélimar producing prodigious amounts. As in other regions, the most interesting wines come from small farms.
Saint Marcel d’Ardèche is on the western bank of the Rhône, northwest of Avignon. Typically, the wines of the region show intense fruit and spice, and carry considerable structure due to the high calcium levels in the soil.
Regional Foods
The marvelously varied cuisine of Provence and the Southern Rhône is defined – but not limited – by its geography. Proximity to the sea and the mountains often results in plates that combine fish and meat and produce, along with the ubiquitous olive tree.
Two classic regional dishes reflect this diversity: brandade melds salt cod, potatoes, garlic, olive oil and fresh cream; bouillabaisse brings together local fish such as racasse, langoustine, skate, and squid, plus sausages, served in saffron-scented stews.
Abundant game adorns restaurant menus: boar, duck, antelope, and rabbit (often as rillettes) are common plats du jour.
Game birds, like capon and pigeon, are roasted with the wide variety of local herbs. Lamb, also a staple, sometimes appears in form of lamb à la ficelle, a leg hung by rope over an open flame. Anchovies from the coast are eaten grilled and served with rosé. The distinctive olive oils produced here are blended with fresh olives and herbs to make tapenade.
© 2011 Moore Brothers Wine Company