crozes-hermitage
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Phocaean Greeks established viticulture in the Rhône as far back as 600 BC, but until the 14th century the wines were not seen outside the region.
The establishment of the Avignonese Papacy (1305-1377) brought fame to the region’s wine – so much so that their Burgundian neighbors to the north banned wines from the Rhône in 1446 – a measure that effectively cut off trade with England and other Northern European markets for over 200 years.
Stretching southward from Lyon to Avignon, the Rhône produces a wide variety of wines, with the appellations north of Valence producing the least (in volume), and the towns south of Montélimar producing prodigious amounts. As in other regions, the most interesting wines come from small farms. The Crozes-Hermitage AOC on the eastern banks of the river is the largest in the Northern Rhône. A majority of growers are in cooperatives, but in recent years the most attention is given to the estate bottled wines of independent producers.
The Northern Rhône’s cuisine has never been indigenous. It’s unique position at the head of the Rhône Basin allows the Marin winds from the Mediterranean to penetrate fairly far north and ripen the fruit growing on the eastern banks to levels often the equal of the Southern Rhône.
But beyond the narrow river valley the climate turns continental, and so does the food. Most of the inspiration has been taken from the foods of Lyon and Burgundy, and relies on the high-quality ingredients that adorn the countryside, which include naturally raised chickens from Bresse, beef from Charolais cattle, and game and fish from nearby forests and streams.
Wine, of course, is used for making sauces usually with onion, mushrooms and lardoons (salt pork). Boeuf Bourguignon and Coq a Vin follow this pattern. Saucisson, both hot and sweet, stewed in red wine or served à la rosette or en brioche are also popular.