Paolo De Marchi, as the proprietor of Isole e Olena in Chianti, has become one of Italy’s most respected artisans and a force for positive change in the wine world. While Tuscany helped create his reputation, Paolo’s roots have always been in Piemonte.
The De Marchi family inherited Villa Sperino in Lessona in the middle of the 19th century and produced wine there until 1970.
In 2000 Paolo, along with his son Luca, began reclaiming 25 acres of hillside vineyards by replanting Nebbiolo and the other indigenous varieties, Vespolina and Croatina. TheCosta della Sesia Rosato is a blend of the three.
Fine, racy, earthy fruit, bright floral aromatics, and a plush mid-palate are the hallmarks of this very refined rosé.
Regional History
The wines of Piemonte are noted as far back as Pliny’s Natural History. Due to geographic and political isolation, Piemonte was without a natural port for most of its history, which made exportation treacherous and expensive. This left the Piemontese with little incentive to expand production.
Sixteenth-century records show a mere 14% of the Bassa Langa under vine – most of that low-lying and farmed polyculturally.
In the nineteenth century, the Marchesa Falletti, a French woman by birth, brought eonologist Louis Oudart from Champagne to create the first dry wines in Piemonte. Along with work in experimental vineyards at Castello Grinzane conducted by Camilo Cavour – later Conte di Cavour, leader of the Risorgimento and first Prime Minister of Italy – this was the birth of modern wine in the Piedmont.
Outside of the Langhe, the most prominent area of wine production in Piemonte is the chain of sub-alpine hills that run through the provinces of Novara and Vercelli.
Here the Romans introduced spionia, an ancient grape variety that thrived in foggy climates. Whether this was in fact a genetic ancestor of Nebbiolo is unknown, but the derivation of its name, Spanna, is now how the locals refer to this noble grape.
The Morainic soils, mostly deposited along the Sesia River, are of glacial origin and produce more medium-bodied, aromatically driven nebbiolo than in the Langhe.
The appellations of note in Novara are Gattinara, Lessona and Bramaterra, and in Vercelli are Ghemme, Fara, Boca, and Szizzano.
Regional Foods
Piedmontese cuisine is heavily influenced by French culture; rich foods with béchamel, mayonnaise, and reduction sauces are often featured. The cuisine is highly localized and seasonal – vegetable varieties are abundant in the south-bordering Liguria.
Piemonte has its own distinct breed of cow descended from the Auroch and Zebu breeds. Their distinctly flavored beef is unique and often served as carpaccio, or braised or roasted.
Regional pastas include tagliatelle and ravioli stuffed with local vegetables, cheese and meats.
White truffles are the most famous and expensive regional specialty, and are often shaved over appetizers or served à la carte in thin slices.
Typical cheeses include Castelmangno, Gorgonzola, Fontal, Fontina, Bra and Robiola-Piedmontese.
© Moore Brothers Wine Company