clos baudoin 1989
By
Prince Philippe Poniatowski changed my life. He was the first “Old World” producer I ever met. Listening to him talk about the vines in his care, it was clear that up to that point, everything I knew about wine was wrong.
When I first visited the Clos Baudoin, his home and vineyard in Vouvray, I knew I’d been there a thousand times, because I’d drunk the wine so often. Every bottle was “that place,” captured at a point in time, and preserved, just waiting for me to visit again.
The Clos Baudoin is a single vineyard which provides the roof for the small winery underneath. The vineyard itself is just a little smaller than Rittenhouse Square in Philadelphia. It is the only vineyard in the Loire to ever be named a “Grand Cru” of France. It is a timeless place, capable of timeless wines.
The wines, particularly those of the “great” vintages, made under the guidance of Prince Philippe are quintessentially French wines – anachronistic, idiosyncratic lessons in how it is the “place” that makes great wine, not a “winemaker” (a word that doesn’t even exist in French, or Italian for that matter).
Prince Philippe has retired, and sold his property to another winemaker from across the river, who is, by the way, a “winemaker.” I’ve yet to warm up to his wines. But there exists a significant amount of one of the greatest vintages ever grown at the “Clos,” and it is a wonderful testament to Philippe’s stewardship of the vineyard. As “The Prince” once told me…”The land was here long before me. It will be here long after I’m gone.”
This wine will tell Philippe’s story of the Clos Baudoin for years to come. Salut, cher “Poni,” and take care.
View the tasting note for Clos Baudoin 1989