The history of Châteauneuf-du-Pape as a fine wine region has its beginnings in 1309 when the French-born Pope Clement V moved the Roman Curia to Avignon and built the “New Home of the Pope” in the commune of Calcernier* north of the city. Clement’s successor, John XXll is credited with establishing the Papal vineyards surrounding the castle.
Until the 19th Century, wines from the town were sold simply as vin d’Avignon until reference to Papal history proved lucrative, and the reputation of “Châteauneuf-du-Pape-Calcernier” rose to match that of Hermitage in the northern Rhône. Phylloxera attacked in the 1870s, and replanting led to fraud, which, paradoxically, led to the beginnings of a strong reform movement that became the basis for the French system of Appellation Contrôlée.
The appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape allows, in red wines, thirteen different grape varieties and, in white wines, five different grape varieties, all produced under a series of strict regulations. Curiously, one local regulation prohibits the landing of Cigares Volant, or “flying saucers,” which were reportedly seen hovering over the vineyards from time to time.
The marvelously varied cuisine of Provence and the Southern Rhône is defined – but not limited – by its geography. Proximity to the sea and the mountains often results in plates that combine fish and meat and produce, along with the ubiquitous olive tree. Two classic regional dishes reflect this diversity: brandade melds salt cod, potatoes, garlic, olive oil and fresh cream; bouillabaisse brings together local fish such as racasse, langoustine, skate, and squid, plus sausages, served in saffron-scented stews. Abundant game adorns restaurant menus: boar, duck, antelope, and rabbit (often as rillettes) are common plats du jour. Game birds like capon and pigeon are roasted with the wide variety of local herbs. Lamb, also a staple, sometimes appears in form of lamb a la ficelle, a leg hung by rope over an open flame. Anchovies from Collioure are eaten grilled and served with rosé. The distinctive olive oils produced here are blended with fresh olives and herbs to make tapenade.