Kleenex, Xerox, Jello…these have evolved to refer to a generic class of things (tissue, copies and copiers, fruit gelatin) rather than the specific brands for tissues, copies and copiers, and fruit “flavored” gelatin. Very early in my working at Moore Brothers, I came to realize Champagne was also a victim of this kind of “genericide.” (OK, that’s loosely using the term genericide; Champagne isn’t a brand, it’s a geographical indication). I was one of the major violaters in thinking Champagne was synonymous with sparkling wine. Now that I know how special true Champagne is I fight for its name to proclaim its unique qualities.

A few months back, I disabused my brother when I purchased a bottle of Bele Casel Prosecco di Valdobbiadene for us to enjoy before heading out for a birthday dinner…

…as I pull the Prosecco from the fridge, my brother sees the classic sparkling wine crown cap and says,“Cool, champagne.”

“It’s not Champagne,” I told him, “It’s Prosecco. You know…Champagne is a VERY specific type of sparkling wine. So is Prosecco.”

I’m eager to lay out my new-found knowledge so I go on to explain the importance of appellation and how certain grapes have been historically grown in certain regions; how Prosecco is made from Prosecco grapes historically grown in the Veneto region of Italy and how Champagne is made most often from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes grown in the Champagne region of France.

His eyes seem to be glazing over – absolutely no sense of intrigue. I shouldn’t be surprised.

My brother is someone who really enjoys the taste of alcohol and doesn’t seem to care much for the nuances of wine. In fact, he once drank wine from a bottle that had been opened and left over from Christmas dinner: it was March.

We raise our glasses of Prosecco to toast. I anxiously await to hear what he thinks about the wine. (I LOVE this wine. It’s very popular among our customers at the store as well; it’s light, fruity and refreshing; great for drinking all on its own.)

My brother comments, “Hmm…I thought I didn’t like champagne but this stuff tastes good.”

“It’s NOT Champagne, it’s Prosecco,” I remind him.

“Oh right, maybe that’s why I like it.”

“Maybe you just haven’t had good, quality Champagne.”

Again, no sense of intrigue from him. Darn it. I was hoping he’d be all ears to my rant on how the wine industry is inundiated with poor quality “industrial” wine.

We continue drinking and reminiscing about the good ‘ol days from our youth. Back when our parents would often buy Reunite for special occasions.

“Can I have more champagne?” my brother asks.

In searching for the origins of how Champagne became “genericized,” I came across a few references to the Treaty of Versailles after World War I, which protected the name and usage of the word Champagne. However, the United States never fully participated in the treaty, and producers of sparkling wine in the U.S. used the word “Champagne” in generic branding of their products.

My first experience with true Champagne was at the store, with the Delavenne Père et Fils Brut Rosé. It’s one of the tastiest wines I’ve ever had – so much so, I can see myself easily drinking an entire bottle alone. I’ve tried many of the other Champagnes as well. Although I haven’t had enough of each to be able to compare and contrast them, what stood out and made an impression was their minerality and yeastyness, very much different from the other sparkling wines (Prosecco, Sekt) which seem to be more fruity.

I wish my brother could be as interested…

Posted by Susan Albarran