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rosé drink down

By Susan Albarran

Thursday, January 13th, 2011

rose

I was in a funk. All my winter “dates” with wine and the cold weather had me feeling like a bear in hibernation; I wasn’t much inspired to cook, drink or blog.

But with the onset of warmer, sunnier days it occurred to me: what better way to come out of hibernation than to share some lovely Rosé with some close friends? “You are cordially invited to a Rosé drink down,” the subject line of my e-mail invitation read. There would be some home-made food as well, but I decided to not put too much thought into pairing since I selected four Rosés each with very different qualities:
Corte Gardoni Rosé Bardolino Chiaretto
Proprieta Sperino Rosa del Rosa
Chateau Calissanne Cuvee du Chateau
Dominique Roger’s Domaine du Carrou Sancerre Rosé.

At the gathering I ask my friends (before we dig into the food and get rip-roaring drunk), to let me pour the wines for them to taste one by one. I’ve been a little frustrated with my ability to “sell” wine, which at Moore Brothers simply involves talking about the wine. Sounds easy enough, but there is a lot to know and that can be said about the wine, and I sometimes find myself getting brain-freeze (which may, or may not, have to do with the store’s temperature of 56 degrees).

Although I well know that a wine is so much more than its grapes, at the very least I try to memorize the grapes that make up the wine, the region/country which the wine is from, and what it generally tastes like (light/heavy bodied, smooth/rough tannin, etc.). These are the things it seems the “average” customer likes to know. (I often hesitate with describing what a wine tastes like because it can be so subjective and is often relative).

Back to the drink down…

I start with the Bardolino: “This is an Italian Rosé from the Veneto region. It’s a blend of three grapes: corvina, rhondinella and molinera.” We drink. A bunch of mmms are murmured. “It tastes so different than it smells” one friend comments. I explain how that’s often the case; the aroma of a wine is not always indicative of the taste. I also mention how some wines can have slightly off-putting aromas (barn-yardy old Burgundies, petroleumy old Rieslings) but then on the palate, it’s a completely different experience.

Next the Calisanne: “This is a French Rosé from Provence. It’s made up of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.” One friend asks, “Cabernet Sauvignon is a grape? All this time I never knew. Sorry if that’s a stupid question.” I tell my friend no one is born knowing all these things, so there are no stupid questions. We taste. More mmms fill the air.

Next the Sperino: “This is an Italian Rosé from Piedmont. It’s mostly Nebbiolo with some Vespolina.” At this point, the mmms reach a climax. (We’ve had this wine open at the store’s tasting table for the past few weeks and I’ve lost count of how many anti-Rosé converts we’ve had because of it.)

Last the Sancerre: “This is French Rosé from Sancerre, in the Loire Valley. It’s 100% Pinot Noir.” As we taste, I realize I’ve made a mistake in the ordering of the flights. I can’t taste a thing. My palate is overwhelmed by the Sperino. The Sperino is the biggest-bodied, most textured wine of the four and, therefore, should have best tasted last. The Sancerre Rosé, being very delicate, should have been tasted first.

I’m not sure if my friends notice, or care for that matter, because at this point we’re deep in laughter and talking about much more scandalous topics than wine. There’s a sense of tipsiness among us as well – and, I firmly believe, not solely from the alcohol in the wine but from their beauty. This is part of the romance of wine: how good wine can be so uplifting, and is often made better when shared with special friends.

Posted by Susan Albarran

Categories : rosé

Tags : learning, rose

bardolino chiaretto rosé corte gardoni

By David Moore

Thursday, January 13th, 2011

Very fine, dry vino rosato from the Lake Garda wine district, produced in tiny quantity by one of the most respected estates in the region. This lively blend of Rondinella, Corvina and Molinara shows a fresh cranberry nose and a supple, vibrant palate accented by mild spicy notes. Chiaretto like this is excellent with cioppino, bouillabaisse, and fresh, flavorful salads.

region

Regional History
The ancients believed Venetians were directly descended from the survivors of the Fall of Troy. Like the Trojans, they were tremendous artisans, and their agricultural ability was particularly admired. More likely, the Venetians came from the vast diaspora of peoples out of the Carpathian Mountains around 1500 BC.

It was homage to these people that prompted the Romans to name the Tenth Imperial Region after them: the Veneti. Pliny, Virgil, Suetonius and Martial all refer to Reticum and Acinaticum, the direct ancestors of modern Veronese wine.

Directly west of the city of Verona, on the southeastern shore of Lake Garda are Bardolino and Bianco di Custoza. The poor quality of the soil, composed mainly of gravel, clay sand deposited by melting ice at the end of the last glacial period, is the unique microclimate that is responsible for the fragrance and charm of these wines.

Regional Foods
Veneto touches the Adriatic Sea at Venice and runs north through the Dolomites to the Austrian border. Its southern and western limits are the large alluvial plain formed by the Garda basin and the valley north of the Po River.

This tremendous variety of landscape has provided Veneto with an equally varied cuisine: seafood from both Lake Garda and the Adriatic; game, mushrooms and mountain herbs from the Dolomites; the best vegetables of Northeastern Italy – as well as its two staples, corn and rice – come from the Po Valley. Polenta was introduced in the 17th century and was prepared in much the same way as other grain flours that preceded it. It can be plain, grilled or fried and paired with meats, game and fish.

Rice, introduced by the Venetian traders as early as 1400, is the inspiration for as many as forty different risottos. Rice is also prepared with fish and vegetables. One of the fonder pairings of rice and vegetables is Risi e Bisi, or rice and fresh young peas.

Categories : rosé, tasting notes, veneto/alto-adige/etc...

Tags : italy, rose, tasting notes, veneto

coteaux d’aix-en-provence rosé château revelette

By David Moore

Thursday, January 13th, 2011

Château Revelette and its 24 hectares of vineyards are found amidst a classic Provençal landscape of oak forest, juniper, wild thyme, and rosemary. Owner Peter Fisher is also the winegrower of this historic estate – where all the grapes are handpicked and the vineyards are farmed organically. The Rosé is a blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, and grenache that undergoes cool fermentation and elevation in stainless steel, resulting in a perfect aperitif, and a delicious pairing with grilled seafood and veal.

region

Regional History
The history of Provence can be traced back to Neolithic cave paintings. The first settlers were Ligurians who were absorbed by Celtic invaders from the north. Phocaean Greeks settled Masalia (Marseilles) in 600 BC and the Romans had completed their conquest by 124 BC. Evidence of all these (and succeeding) cultures can still be seen in the cities and fortified villages of the region.

These diverse cultures have left an indelible mark on the art, literature and cuisine of Provence. Mont Victoire, named for the Roman victory over the Franks in 107 BC, dominates the barren hillsides surrounding the ancient Roman city of Aix. Sparse pine forests and olive trees give way to vineyards that are planted to both Mediterranean and Atlantic varieties.

Regional Foods
The marvelously varied cuisine of Provence and the Southern Rhône is defined – but not limited – by its geography. Proximity to the sea and the mountains often results in plates that combine fish and meat and produce, along with the ubiquitous olive tree.

Two classic regional dishes reflect this diversity: brandade melds salt cod, potatoes, garlic, olive oil and fresh cream; bouillabaisse brings together local fish such as racasse, langoustine, skate, and squid, plus sausages, served in saffron-scented stews.

Abundant game adorns restaurant menus: boar, duck, antelope, and rabbit (often as rillettes) are common plats du jour.

Game birds, like capon and pigeon, are roasted with the wide variety of local herbs. Lamb, also a staple, sometimes appears in form of lamb à la ficelle, a leg hung by rope over an open flame. Anchovies from the coast are eaten grilled and served with rosé. The distinctive olive oils produced here are blended with fresh olives and herbs to make tapenade.

Categories : provence, rosé, tasting notes

Tags : learning, provence, rose, tasting notes

coste della sesia rosato proprietà sperino

By David Moore

Tuesday, January 11th, 2011

Paolo De Marchi, as the proprietor of Isole e Olena in Chianti, has become one of Italy’s most respected artisans and a force for positive change in the wine world. While Tuscany helped create his reputation, Paolo’s roots have always been in Piemonte.

The De Marchi family inherited Villa Sperino in Lessona in the middle of the 19th century and produced wine there until 1970.

In 2000 Paolo, along with his son Luca, began reclaiming 25 acres of hillside vineyards by replanting Nebbiolo and the other indigenous varieties, Vespolina and Croatina. TheCosta della Sesia Rosato is a blend of the three.

Fine, racy, earthy fruit, bright floral aromatics, and a plush mid-palate are the hallmarks of this very refined ros&eacute.

region

Regional History
The wines of Piemonte are noted as far back as Pliny’s Natural History. Due to geographic and political isolation, Piemonte was without a natural port for most of its history, which made exportation treacherous and expensive. This left the Piemontese with little incentive to expand production.

Sixteenth-century records show a mere 14% of the Bassa Langa under vine – most of that low-lying and farmed polyculturally.

In the nineteenth century, the Marchesa Falletti, a French woman by birth, brought eonologist Louis Oudart from Champagne to create the first dry wines in Piemonte. Along with work in experimental vineyards at Castello Grinzane conducted by Camilo Cavour – later Conte di Cavour, leader of the Risorgimento and first Prime Minister of Italy – this was the birth of modern wine in the Piedmont.

Outside of the Langhe, the most prominent area of wine production in Piemonte is the chain of sub-alpine hills that run through the provinces of Novara and Vercelli.

Here the Romans introduced spionia, an ancient grape variety that thrived in foggy climates. Whether this was in fact a genetic ancestor of Nebbiolo is unknown, but the derivation of its name, Spanna, is now how the locals refer to this noble grape.

The Morainic soils, mostly deposited along the Sesia River, are of glacial origin and produce more medium-bodied, aromatically driven nebbiolo than in the Langhe.

The appellations of note in Novara are Gattinara, Lessona and Bramaterra, and in Vercelli are Ghemme, Fara, Boca, and Szizzano.

Regional Foods
Piedmontese cuisine is heavily influenced by French culture; rich foods with béchamel, mayonnaise, and reduction sauces are often featured. The cuisine is highly localized and seasonal – vegetable varieties are abundant in the south-bordering Liguria.

Piemonte has its own distinct breed of cow descended from the Auroch and Zebu breeds. Their distinctly flavored beef is unique and often served as carpaccio, or braised or roasted.

Regional pastas include tagliatelle and ravioli stuffed with local vegetables, cheese and meats.

White truffles are the most famous and expensive regional specialty, and are often shaved over appetizers or served à la carte in thin slices.

Typical cheeses include Castelmangno, Gorgonzola, Fontal, Fontina, Bra and Robiola-Piedmontese.

Categories : piemonte, rosé, tasting notes

Tags : piemonte, rose, tasting notes

côtes du lubéron cuvée le châtaignier rosé domaine de la citadelle

By David Moore

Tuesday, January 11th, 2011

In 1989, Yves Rousset-Rouard purchased an ancient Provençale farmhouse with 8 hectares of vines – situated on the northern slopes of the Luberon Mountains, at the confluence of the Rhône and the Durance rivers.

Over the years, he and his son Alexis, have expanded the estate to include nearly 100 acres under vine.

Natural farming (no chemical fertilizers or herbicides), low yields, and strict selection of fruit at harvest have helped create elegant renditions of the wines from this neglected appellation.

Alexis is now the manager of the estate, producing 15 different cuvées from the varied micro-climates of the domaine. His le Chatagnier rosé, based primarily on Syrah, is delicate in texture with hints of cassis and raspberry on the nose and brighter acidity than might be expected from a rosé from Provence.

region

Regional History
Phocaean Greeks established viticulture in the Rhône as far back as 600 BC, but until the 14th century the wines were not seen outside the region.

The establishment of the Avignonese Papacy (1305-1377) brought fame to the region’s wine-so much so that their Burgundian neighbors to the north banned wines from the Rhône in 1446, a measure that effectively cut off trade with England and other Northern European markets for over 200 years.

Stretching southward from Lyon to Avignon, the Rhône produces a wide variety of wines, with the appellations north of Valence producing the least (in volume), and the towns south of Montélimar producing prodigious amounts. As in other regions, the most interesting wines come from small farms.

The Côtes du Lubéron, east of Avignon, gained its appellation in 1988. Though it is technically in the Rhône valley, its culture is strictly Provençal and the wines show the more open fruit and aromatics typical of Provence.

Regional Foods
The marvelously varied cuisine of Provence and the Southern Rhône is defined – but not limited – by its geography.

Proximity to the sea and the mountains often results in plates that combine fish and meat and produce, along with the ubiquitous olive tree.

Abundant game adorns restaurant menus: boar, duck, antelope, and rabbit (often as rillettes) are common plats du jour.

Game birds like capon and pigeon are roasted with the wide variety of local herbs. Lamb, also a staple, sometimes appears in form of lamb a la ficelle, a leg hung by rope over an open flame.

Anchovies from the coast are eaten grilled and served with rosé. The distinctive olive oils produced here are blended with fresh olives and herbs to make tapenade.

Categories : provence, rosé, southern france/catalunya, tasting notes

Tags : provence, rose, tasting notes

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Archive for rosé

rosé drink down

bardolino chiaretto rosé corte gardoni

coteaux d’aix-en-provence rosé château revelette

coste della sesia rosato proprietà sperino

côtes du lubéron cuvée le châtaignier rosé domaine de la citadelle