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Our direct, personal relationship with our winegrowers has always meant extra quality and value for our customers. Now, more wines than ever are available to Moore Brothers, but you may never know about them unless you take advantage of our "special offerings" through email.
Small lots of previously unavailable wines, or larger lots from our established winegrowing partners (with special pricing) are offered every week...but they sell out quickly!
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Sergio Germano’s family came out to meet us at his small winery in Serralunga (Barolo); his wife Elena, daughter, Maria, and son Elia.
Everyone in the Germano family contributes to the work on the farm, and in the agritourismo, a small, four suite “bed & breakfast” just up the hill from the home and winery.
Sergio’s daughter, Maria, reminds me of my daughter at the same age, and I thought this little clip of Elena, and Maria getting boxes ready for shipping was just “too cute.”
Whenever two seemingly identical bottles (usually two bottlings made from the same grape(s) are on the “rack” at the same time, I’m often asked, “What is the difference between these two wines?”
Beyond offering descriptions of the flavors, scents and textures in our wines – with and without food – there are a litany of other factors that can contribute to the differences between two bottles sitting next to each other on our racks. (And unless you indicate to me that you’re already 15 minutes late for your dinner reservation, or the kids are out in the car with the windows rolled up, I will do my very best to elucidate those things for you)
A major factor in wine, and a word you will hear often at Moore Brothers, is “place”. (‘Our wines have a sense of place,’ and ‘Barolo is a place’).
Having recently traveled to Tuscany and Piemonte in Italy, the importance of “place” became glaringly apparent. The climate, the scents, the surrounding environs, the altitude – all there, washing over you, all contributing to that sense of “place”. But again, what makes those two bottles of wine from the same producer, of the same grape, seemingly from the same place, different?
On a drive after our morning visit with Sergio Germano in Serralunga D’Alba in Piemonte’s Barolo zone, and a brief stop for lunch on our way to visit Gianluca Grasso in Monforte, I saw it: a large part of the answer, in all it’s stark, chalky glory. I pulled the car over, as Sue (I think we’re all married to a Sue at Moore Brothers) sat wondering what kind of goof she’d married. Who would stop to take a picture of a hill of dirt, amongst all the other natural beauty of Piemonte.
In this picture of a vineyard site, that has been ripped up for replanting, you see varying soil compositions that yield very different characteristics from the same grapes, grown side by side, row by row, all in the same “place”.
As Paolo DeMarchi (of Isole e Olena in Tuscany), so eloquently states, wine is made in the vineyards. Accordingly, a talented producer will recognize these variations in his/her land and can produce wines that are perceptibly different from what most people would consider the same “place”.
(Also, see François Barmès in the little “What is Wine?” video for more on this subject- DM)
As if the sight of this hill was not enough of a visual explanation, ironically the point was further clarified in the tasting room of Paitin the next morning in Barbaresco.
In this photo, you can see they offer visitors a look at samples of their various soils, in large jars, right alongside the bottles of wine produced from their respective vineyard sites.
Here, you can see and taste the “place” all at the same time. What a great way to learn!
Posted by Pat McNally
Giovanni and Silvano Pasquero-Elia are the inheritors of a winemaking tradition going back 7 generations. The estate, located entirely in Serraboella south and east of Neive, was purchased in 1796 and has been selling wine labeled Barbaresco since 1893.
Excellent South and Southwesterly exposure and natural, low-yield farming consistently has produced classic Piemontese wines of finesse and elegance.
The Nebbiolo for the Ca Vaja comes from a vineyard of the same name outside of Barbaresco near the town of Diano d’Alba which was purchased and replanted by the Pasquero-Elias in 1994.
The low yields and aging in predominantly used barrels produce refined, yet full-bodied wine with classic scents of truffle, tar, cocoa, and red fruit on the nose.
Regional History
The wines of Piemonte are noted as far back as Pliny’s Natural History.
Due to geographic and political isolation, Piemonte was without a natural port for most of its history, which made exportation treacherous and expensive. This left the Piemontese with little incentive to expand production.
Sixteenth-century records show a mere 14% of the Bassa Langa under vine – most of that low-lying and farmed polyculturally.
In the nineteenth century the Marchesa Falletti, a French woman by birth, brought eonologist Louis Oudart from Champagne to create the first dry wines in Piemonte.
Along with work in experimental vineyards at Castello Grinzane conducted by Camilo Cavour – later Conte di Cavour, leader of the Risorgimento and first Prime Minister of Italy – this was the birth of modern wine in the Piedmont.
At the heart of the region and her reputation are Alba and the Langhe Hills. This series of weathered outcroppings south of the Tanaro River is of maritime origin and composed mainly of limestone, sand and clay, known as terra bianca.
In these soils – located mainly around the towns of Barolo and Barbaresco – the ancient allobrogica, now nebbiolo, achieves its renowned fineness and power.
Regional Foods
Piedmontese cuisine is heavily influenced by French culture; rich foods with béchamel, mayonnaise, and reduction sauces are often featured.
The cuisine is highly localized and seasonal – vegetable varieties are abundant in the south-bordering Liguria.
Piemonte has its own distinct breed of cow descended from the Auroch and Zebu breeds. Their distinctly flavored beef is unique and often served as “carpaccio”, braised or roasted.
Regional pastas include tagliatelle and ravioli stuffed with local vegetables, cheese and meats.
White truffles are the most famous and expensive regional specialty, and are often shaved over appetizers or served à la carte in thin slices.
Typical cheeses include Castelmangno, Gorgonzola, Fontal, Fontina, Bra and Robiola-Piedmontese.
© 2007 Moore Brothers Wine Company
Susan and I had a rare opportunity to have dinner together (our work schedules are way outta hand) on Saturday. A great past experience took us to Bistro 7 on Third Street just north of Market. Chef/Owner Michael O’Halloran has a wonderful “farm to fork” ethic, and presents a weekly menu based on what he finds available.
We brought 2 bottles with us, even though we knew we wouldn’t finish either. We’d had the Clos du Poyet Muscadet before, but Susan hadn’t yet had the Barbera d’Alba Serra Boella from Paitin. I’d just done a tasting with Giovanni Pasquero-Elia in our New York store, and knew she’d love it.
The highlights of the meal were the escargot with the Muscadet, an outrageous pairing of pulled pork in a densely-flavored rosemary sauce with the Barbera, and the Rhubarb/Strawberry concoction that ended the meal. This is a wonderful BYOB that seems to fly under a lot of folks radar, but it’s busy, so I imagine everyone who knows about it is trying to keep a “secret.”
In 1990, Sergio Germano returned from oenology school to his family’s six hectares in Serralunga d’Alba. As a fourth-generation wine grower – in a part of Barolo where most farmers sold their grapes to Fontanafredda, the largest negociant in the region – Sergio moved their entire production to estate vinification and bottling within two years.
Today, with nearly 11 hectares on and around the cru Cerretta, he remains one of only a handful of artisan producers in Serralunga.
The Langhe appellation is Piedmont’s open appellation, equivalent to IGT in Tuscany, and this freedom, in Sergio’s hands, has produced some exciting wine. For example, this Riesling is dense, vibrant, and earthy…and completely unexpected. It’s dry and powerful, with a long life ahead in a cool, dark cellar.
Regional History
The wines of Piemonte are noted as far back as Pliny’s Natural History. Due to geographic and political isolation, Piemonte was without a natural port for most of its history, which made exportation treacherous and expensive. This left the Piemontese with little incentive to expand production. Sixteenth-century records show a mere 14% of the Bassa Langa under vine – most of that low-lying and farmed polyculturally.
In the nineteenth century the Marchesa Falletti, a Frenchwoman by birth, brought eonologist Louis Oudart from Champagne to create the first dry wines in Piemonte. Along with work in experimental vineyards at Castello Grinzane conducted by Camilo Cavour – later Conte di Cavour, leader of the Risorgimento and first Prime Minister of Italy – this was the birth of modern wine in the Piedmont.
The appellations of Langhe Bianco and Langhe Rosso were created in the 1993 revision to the DOC regulations. It is an open appellation that encompasses most of Alba and the Roero and allows liberal blending of traditional varietals and measured use of non-traditional varietals without aging requirements.
Regional Foods
Piedmontese cuisine is heavily influenced by French culture; rich foods with béchamel, mayonnaise, and reduction sauces are often featured.
The cuisine is highly localized and seasonal – vegetable varieties are abundant in the south-bordering Liguria. Piemonte has its own distinct breed of cow descended from the Auroch and Zebu breeds. Their distinctly flavored beef is unique and often served as “carpaccio.”, braised or roasted.
Regional pastas include tagliatelle and ravioli stuffed with local vegetables, cheese and meats.
White truffles are the most famous and expensive regional specialty, and are often shaved over appetizers or served à la carte in thin slices. Typical cheeses include Castelmangno, Gorgonzola, Fontal, Fontina, Bra and Robiola-Piedmontese.
© 2008 Moore Brothers Wine Company