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Archive for rhône – Page 2

vinsobres altitude 420 domaine jaume

By David Moore
Thursday, January 13th, 2011

jaume vinsobres altitude 420

A family-run winery since 1905, Domaine Jaume comprises 80 hectares in and around the hamlet of Vinsobres, in the southern Rhône Valley.

Many of the parcels sit well above sea level, at heights reaching over four-hundred meters – hence the name given to this wine; “Altitude 420. The fruit from the oldest vines is assembled to produce this cuvée of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, aged briefly in a mix of barrels. Supple and rich, with notes of spice, cocoa and licorice, this wine is the result of excellent viticulture and winemaking in a classic vintage.

region

Regional History
Phocaean Greeks established viticulture in the Rhône as far back as 600 BC, but until the 14th century the wines were not seen outside the region. The establishment of the Avignonese Papacy (1305-1377) brought fame to the region's wine, so much so that their Burgundian neighbors to the north banned wines from the Rhône in 1446, a measure that effectively cut off trade with England and other Northern European markets for over 200 years.

Stretching southward from Lyon to Avignon, the Rhône produces a wide variety of wines, with the appellations north of Valence producing the least (in volume), and the towns south of Montélimar producing prodigious amounts. As in other regions, the most interesting wines come from small farms. The AOC Côtes-du-Rhône covers the entire Rhône region but is more regularly used in the south.

Regional Foods
The marvelously varied cuisine of Provence and the Southern Rhône is defined – but not limited – by its geography. Proximity to the sea and the mountains often results in plates that combine fish and meat and produce, along with the ubiquitous olive tree. Two classic regional dishes reflect this diversity: brandade melds salt cod, potatoes, garlic, olive oil and fresh cream; bouillabaisse brings together local fish such as racasse, langoustine, skate, and squid, plus sausages, served in saffron-scented stews. Abundant game adorns restaurant menus: boar, duck, antelope, and rabbit (often as rillettes) are common plats du jour. Game birds like capon and pigeon are roasted with the wide variety of local herbs. Lamb, also a staple, sometimes appears in form of lamb a la ficelle, a leg hung by rope over an open flame. Anchovies from Collioure are eaten grilled and served with rosé. The distinctive olive oils produced here are blended with fresh olives and herbs to make tapenade.

© Moore Brothers Wine Company

Categories : food with wine, rhône, tasting notes
Tags : learning, tasting notes

pierre’s gift…

By greg
Thursday, January 13th, 2011

villerouge2

Crozes-Hermitage Inspiration Domaine de la Ville Rouge
Pierre Paillardon was the wine director at Gerard Vie’s  Les Trois Marches  in Versailles when I met him twenty-five years ago, shortly after he was named the first  Meilleur Jeune Sommelier de France  (Best Young Sommelier of France). Pierre is still the best taster I know, and a good friend, who sometimes sends me a bottle or two of a wine that has profoundly impressed him, from an estate he has recently visited.

Here is a gift from Pierre that I opened a few months ago: a succulent northern Rhône Syrah, with a sweet core of fruit; unmistakably ripe blackberry and cocoa, with a fine, almost graphite-like finish; a wine that kept getting better and better by the minute as it evolved in the glass.

I had never even heard of  Sébastien Girard  or  Domaine de la Ville Rouge  before I tasted this wine. It was still in my glass when I called Pierre to find out more. “An incredible estate,” he told me.

It was Friday morning and I had work to do, but this Crozes-Hermitage wouldn’t let go. And wine like this always wins. So Pierre played  courtier  (not for the first time), and when I heard the price I asked Sébastien Girard if any would be available for us (I didn’t know that only 400 cases were made). Remarkably, seventy-five of those cases arrived at Moore Brothers.

Domaine de la Ville Rouge:
Sébastien Girard finished enology school in 2005, and returned to the family estate in Mercurol, where four generations of Girards had grown brilliant Syrah on the  galets roulés  of the Chassis plain, all sold in bulk to the cooperative at Tain l’Hermitage and the top  négociants,  like Guigal and Chapoutier.

On his return, Sébastien convinced his father Edgar that the best way to secure the future of the family farm would be to reserve the best grapes, and estate-bottle the wine. This wine announces Sébastien Girard’s arrival at the summit of Crozes-Hermitage.

This Wine:
In the glass, the wine is nearly opaque, with a deep purple color right to the edge. The nose develops with beautiful black fruit aromatics lightly seasoned with baking spices and a hint of white pepper. On the palate, the wine has a round and supple mouthfeel, with ripe sweet blackberries, cocoa, and subtle spices that follow through to a refreshing, fine-grained finish.

As always at Moore Brothers, this wine was shipped and delivered to us in refrigerated containers. Whether you drink it this week, or lay it down for five years in your own cool cellar, it will taste just as Sébastien and Edgar Girard intended. The wine was perfect last night with Sue’s  spinach fusilli with French green lentils,   adapted from a recipe in Lynne Rossetto Kasper’s  The Splendid Table. 

I thank you again for your continued support of small-farmers, and your participation in their stewardship of meaningful traditions.

Greg Moore

Categories : food with wine, learning, rhône, tasting notes
Tags : food with wine, learning, tasting notes

côtes-du-rhône-villages-chusclan cuvée terra amata Château Signac

By David Moore
Tuesday, January 11th, 2011

signac terra amataThe original site of Château Signac was first planted to vines over 2,000 years ago. The hard, stony soils made wine growing difficult – even as recently as 1961 the estate farmed only 10 acres.

In 1989 Jean-Marc Amez-Droz and his family, along with a group of interested partners bought the estate. This “team,” as they refer to themselves, began a long process of replanting, and brought the farming into lutte raisonée, without herbicides.

The vines are a perfectly “proportional” mix of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Counoise. Yields are quite low for the region (25-30hl/ha) from the vines which now average 35 years-old.

The Terra Amataoffers a perfect window to the unique terroir of the Dente de Signac; voluptuous, dark fruit, with spice and garrigue aromatics – perfect for grilled meats and rack of lamb.

Regional History

Cotes du Rhone mapPhocaean Greeks established viticulture in the Rhône as far back as 600 BC, but until the 14th century the wines were not seen outside the region. The establishment of the Avignonese Papacy (1305-1377) brought fame to the region’s wine – so much so that their Burgundian neighbors to the north banned wines from the Rhône in 1446, a measure that effectively cut off trade with England and other Northern European markets for over 200 years.

Stretching southward from Lyon to Avignon, the Côtes du Rhône produces a wide variety of wines, with the appellations north of Valence producing the least (in volume), and the towns south of Montélimar producing prodigious amounts. As in other regions, the most interesting wines come from small farms.

The AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Village Chusclan was originally planted by Roman centurions nearly 2000 years ago. The vines were farmed and protected by Benedictine monks for nearly a thousand years before the French Revolution. In the 18th century, the Village of Chusclan established its own “appellation controlée” by banning the import of wines from outside the region – so convinced were they of the qualities of their terroir.

Regional Foods

The marvelously varied cuisine of Provence and the Southern Rhône is defined – but not limited – by its geography. Proximity to the sea and the mountains often results in plates that combine fish and meat and produce, along with the ubiquitous olive tree.

Two classic regional dishes reflect this diversity: brandade melds salt cod, potatoes, garlic, olive oil and fresh cream; bouillabaisse brings together local fish such as racasse, langoustine, skate, and squid, plus sausages, served in saffron-scented stews. Abundant game adorns restaurant menus: boar, duck, antelope, and rabbit (often as rillettes ) are common plats du jour.

Game birds like capon and pigeon are roasted with the wide variety of local herbs. Lamb, also a staple, sometimes appears in form of lamb à la ficelle, a leg hung by rope over an open flame. Anchovies from Collioure are eaten grilled and served with rosé. The distinctive olive oils produced here are blended with fresh olives and herbs to make tapenade.

© 2011Moore Brothers Wine Company

Categories : rhône
Tags : tasting notes

côtes-du-rhône-villages-chusclan cuvée combe d’enfer Château Signac

By David Moore
Monday, January 10th, 2011

chateau signac combe d'enferThe original site of Château Signac was first planted to vines over 2,000 years ago. The hard, stony soils made wine growing difficult – even as recently as 1961 the estate farmed only 10 acres.

In 1989 Jean-Marc Amez-Droz and his family, along with a group of interested partners bought the estate. This “team,” as they refer to themselves, began a long process of replanting, and brought the farming into lutte raisonée, without herbicides.

The vines are a perfectly “proportional” mix of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Counoise. Yields are quite low for the region (25-30hl/ha) from the vines which now average 35 years-old.

The Cuvée Combe d’Enfer offers a perfect window to the unique terroir of the Dente de Signac; warm, red fruit, with spice and garrigue aromatics – perfect for grilled meats and rack of lamb.

Regional History

Cotes du Rhone map

Phocaean Greeks established viticulture in the Rhône as far back as 600 BC, but until the 14th century the wines were not seen outside the region. The establishment of the Avignonese Papacy (1305-1377) brought fame to the region’s wine – so much so that their Burgundian neighbors to the north banned wines from the Rhône in 1446, a measure that effectively cut off trade with England and other Northern European markets for over 200 years.

Stretching southward from Lyon to Avignon, the Côtes du Rhône produces a wide variety of wines, with the appellations north of Valence producing the least (in volume), and the towns south of Montélimar producing prodigious amounts. As in other regions, the most interesting wines come from small farms.

The AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Village Chusclan was originally planted by Roman centurions nearly 2000 years ago. The vines were farmed and protected by Benedictine monks for nearly a thousand years before the French Revolution. In the 18th century, the Village of Chusclan established its own “appellation controlée” by banning the import of wines from outside the region – so convinced were they of the qualities of their terroir.

Regional Foods

The marvelously varied cuisine of Provence and the Southern Rhône is defined – but not limited – by its geography. Proximity to the sea and the mountains often results in plates that combine fish and meat and produce, along with the ubiquitous olive tree.

Two classic regional dishes reflect this diversity: brandade melds salt cod, potatoes, garlic, olive oil and fresh cream; bouillabaisse brings together local fish such as racasse, langoustine, skate, and squid, plus sausages, served in saffron-scented stews. Abundant game adorns restaurant menus: boar, duck, antelope, and rabbit (often as rillettes ) are common plats du jour.

Game birds like capon and pigeon are roasted with the wide variety of local herbs. Lamb, also a staple, sometimes appears in form of lamb à la ficelle, a leg hung by rope over an open flame. Anchovies from Collioure are eaten grilled and served with rosé. The distinctive olive oils produced here are blended with fresh olives and herbs to make tapenade.

© 2011 Moore Brothers Wine Company

Categories : rhône, tasting notes
Tags : tasting notes

châteauneuf-du-pape “reserve” domaine la barroche 2005

By David Moore · Comments (0)
Wednesday, December 5th, 2007

Christian Barrot has worked his 30-acre estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape for nearly 50 of the 300 years the property has been in the family. Spread over the northern end of the appellation, the estate includes parcels of old Grenache originally planted in the late 19th Century.

The largest single holding is 8-1/2 acres in the lieu-dit, Grand Pierre, a stony hillside next to the lieu-dit, Rayas.

Christian’s son, Julien, who studied oenology in Bordeaux and Australia, took over the winemaking and viticulture in 2002, bringing biodynamic practices to the farming.

In most vintages, three cuvées are made from the various parcels. The Reserve brings a part of each site to a final blend which perfectly showcases the domaine. The ripe, plush character of the fruit is a gift of the extraordinary 2005 harvest. Barrot, père et fils, are considered among the most attentive farmers in Châteauneuf.

region

Regional History
The history of Châteauneuf-du-Pape begins in1309 when the French-born Pope Clement V moved the Roman Curia to Avignon and built the New Home of the Pope in the commune of Calcernier north of the city. Clement’s successor, John XXll is credited with establishing the Papal vineyards surrounding the castle.

Until the 19th Century, wines from the town were sold simply as vin d’Avignon until reference to Papal history proved lucrative, and the reputation of “Châteauneuf-du-Pape-Calcernier” rose to match that of Hermitage in the northern Rhône.

Phylloxera attacked in the 1870s, and replanting led to fraud, which, paradoxically, led to the beginnings of a strong reform movement that became the basis for the French system of Appellation Contrôlée.

The appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape allows, in red wines, thirteen different grape varieties and, in white wines, five different grape varieties, all produced under a series of strict regulations. Curiously, one local regulation prohibits the landing of Cigares Volant, or “flying saucers”, which were reportedly seen hovering over the vineyards from time to time.

Regional Foods
The marvelously varied cuisine of Provence and the Southern Rhône is defined – but not limited – by its geography. Proximity to the sea and the mountains often results in plates that combine fish and meat and produce, along with the ubiquitous olive tree.

Two classic regional dishes reflect this diversity: brandade melds salt cod, potatoes, garlic, olive oil and fresh cream; bouillabaisse brings together local fish such as racasse, langoustine, skate, and squid, plus sausages, served in saffron-scented stews.

Abundant game adorns restaurant menus: boar, duck, antelope, and rabbit (often as rillettes) are common plats du jour. Game birds like capon and pigeon are roasted with the wide variety of local herbs.

Lamb, also a staple, sometimes appears in form of lamb a la ficelle, a leg hung by rope over an open flame. Anchovies from Collioure are eaten grilled and served with rosé.

The distinctive olive oils produced here are blended with fresh olives and herbs to make tapenade.

© Moore Brothers Wine Company

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Categories : rhône, tasting notes
Tags : tasting notes
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