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Archive for loire – Page 2

clos baudoin

By David Moore
Thursday, January 13th, 2011

Poniatowski Clos Baudoin

Prince Philippe Poniatowski changed my life. He was the first “Old World” producer I ever met. Listening to him talk about the vines in his care, it was clear that up to that point, everything I knew about wine was wrong.

When I first visited the Clos Baudoin, his home and vineyard in Vouvray, I knew I’d been there a thousand times, because I’d drunk the wine so often. Every bottle was “that place,” captured at a point in time, and preserved, just waiting for me to visit again.

The Clos Baudoin is a single vineyard which provides the roof for the small winery underneath. The vineyard itself is just a little smaller than Rittenhouse Square in Philadelphia. It is the only vineyard in the Loire to ever be named a “Grand Cru” of France. It is a timeless place, capable of timeless wines.

The wines, particularly those of the “great” vintages, made under the guidance of Prince Philippe are quintessentially French wines – anachronistic, idiosyncratic lessons in how it is the “place” that makes great wine, not a “winemaker” (a word that doesn’t even exist in French, or Italian for that matter).

Prince Philippe has retired, and sold his property to another winemaker from across the river, who is, by the way, a “winemaker.” I’ve yet to warm up to his wines. But we were heirs to a significant amount of one of the greatest vintages ever grown at the “Clos,” and they were wonderful testaments to Philippe’s stewardship of the vineyard. As “The Prince” once told me…”The land was here long before me. It will be here long after I’m gone.”

This wine will tell Philippe’s story of the Clos Baudoin for years to come. Salut, cher “Poni,” and take care.

Posted by David Moore

Categories : loire, our winegrowers
Tags : learning, tasting notes

blackbird in collingswood

By David Moore
Thursday, January 13th, 2011

blackbird logo

It was late, and Susan and I had just opened a bottle of Clos Baudoin 1989…and we were hungry.

There aren’t a lot of restaurants I’d trust with this wine, but Alex Capasso’s Blackbird in Collingswood seemed like a good bet.

Susan started with Thai Chicken Spring Rolls, and I had Scallop seared with a light Lobster Sauce to start. For the main course, Susan had a Scallop dish, and I had a smokin’ filet of Halibut with Chinese Eggplant and Ginger Sauce.

The wine was perfect with just about everything – particularly the Scallops and Halibut dishes, proving (once again) that “sweet” wines can often be very versatile.

Posted by David Moore

Categories : byob, dinner with susan, food with wine, loire
Tags : byob, dinner with susan, learning

chinon les graves vignoble gasnier

By David Moore
Thursday, January 13th, 2011

chinon domaine gasnier

Low yields from 30-year-old Cabernet Franc (locally known as Breton) give aromatically complex fruit that, carefully vinified, produces attractive wines with the scents and flavors of the Loire valley.

Fabrice Gasnier takes pride in his attention to detail; the winery is impeccably clean and modern, the farming entirely biodynamic. Some of the best wines of the appellation – wines that might make Rabelais sing, ” …Versez donc a coupe pleine…” – come from his estate. Les Graves, as the name implies, comes from lower elevation vineyards nearer the Vienne River. The gravelly soil here produces intense blueberry/cassis and violet aromatics and finer, less concentrated tannins. Excellent bistro wine that pairs as well with roasted chicken as it does with seared salmon.

region

Regional History
The Loire River runs 635 miles from the Cévennes Mountains in southeastern France to the Atlantic Coast and flows through (or near) over 60 different appellations. During its long history, the hillsides along the banks provided well-drained soils on which to grow grapes, and the river itself provided a transportation network to outside markets. Chinon was the home of the Henry Plantagenet, Count of Anjou in the 12th Century when he was crowned King of England. He ruled England from Chinon Castle and introduced the local wine to the English court, ensuring a ready market. Even then, the vineyards were ancient. During the Rennaissance, Rabelais published his satirical works that contained joyous reference to the wines of his hometown, Chinon. The Cabernet Franc (locally referred to as Breton) is the primary grape of the region which also grows Cabernet Sauvignon and small plantings of Chenin Blanc for the rare whites.

Regional Foods
The lower half of the Loire River, the longest in France, runs through more than forty wine appellations, among them Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume, Vouvray, Chinon, Saumur, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, and Muscadet. This broad valley, noted for its big skies and big chateaux, doesn’t boast an indigenous cuisine. Nevertheless, the rich soil and the varied landscape provide a bounty of raw materials for a cook. Diverse livestock are raised on local farms; the Atlantic coast and the river itself supply plentiful fish; vegetables and grains are harvested from the large, well-tended kitchen gardens seen everywhere. So one drinks Muscadet with Atlantic oysters and pike au beurre blanc, Vouvray with friture de la loire (fried freshwater fish) or pork rillettes. Rillons, little fists of pork belly, might be enjoyed with a glass of Montlouis. The reds of Chinon and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil often accompany jugged hare, pork with prunes or venison. Restaurants offer baked cod, escargot, frog’s legs and freshwater fish pate with Pouilly-Fume.

© 2007 Moore Brothers Wine Company

Categories : loire, tasting notes
Tags : loire, tasting notes

touraine sauvignon les trois chĂȘnes domaine ricard

By David Moore
Thursday, January 13th, 2011

domaine ricard trois chenes

Located on southern facing slopes of the river Cher in the heart of the Touraine district (southeast and about 20km from Tours), Vincent Ricard now farms seventeen hectares planted mostly to Sauvignon Blanc, with parcels of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Gamay. The farming is organic, incorporating practices taken from the discipline of  biodynamics,  which Vincent encountered during a stage with François Chidaine in Montlouis, and the entire harvest is bottled at the estate.

Cuvée les Trois Chênes  comes from a parcel of Sauvignon Blanc planted in 1950 on a south-facing slope of sand and flint. The winemaking is exacting: fermentation for twelve weeks in a mix of new and used barriques, and aging on the lees with frequent  batonnage  for eight more months. The wood contributes texture, but nothing to distract from the pure green apple, boxwood, and wet stone aromatics, and is completely integrated with the grapefruit peel, Asian pear, and bitter honey on the palate.

region

Regional History
The Loire River runs 635 miles from the Cévennes Mountains in southeastern France to the Atlantic Coast and flows through (or near) over 60 different appellations. During its long history, the hillsides along the banks provided well-drained soils on which to grow grapes, and the river itself provided a transportation network to outside markets.

The Appellation Touraine has always existed in the shadow of its more famous neighbors, Sancerre, Vouvray, and Pouilly-Fumé. Economics seemed to have played a key role in suppressing the market for the region’s wine – the vineyards are further away from the Loire River where commerce has always been livelier.

The white wines are generally Sauvignon or Chenin Blanc, and the land is calcareous, rich in chalk and flint. The wines tend to be brightly scented and crisp, but in most areas production is left to a village cooperative. The best are always from the small farms who have the courage to “estate” bottle their wines.

Regional Foods
The lower half of the Loire River, the longest in France, runs through more than forty wine appellations, among them Touraine, Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume, Vouvray, Chinon, Saumur, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, and Muscadet. This broad valley, noted for its big skies and big chateaux, doesn’t boast an indigenous cuisine. Nevertheless, the rich soil and the varied landscape provide a bounty of raw materials for a cook.

Diverse livestock are raised on local farms; the Atlantic coast and the river itself supply plentiful fish; vegetables and grains are harvested from the large, well-tended kitchen gardens seen everywhere.

So one drinks Muscadet with Atlantic oysters and pike au beurre blanc, Vouvray with friture de la loire (fried freshwater fish) or pork rillettes. Rillons, little fists of pork belly, might be enjoyed with a glass of Montlouis or Touraine blanc.

The reds of Chinon and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil often accompany jugged hare, pork with prunes or venison. Restaurants offer baked cod, escargot, frog’s legs and freshwater fish pate with Pouilly-Fume.

© 2007 Moore Brothers Wine Company

Categories : loire, tasting notes
Tags : loire, tasting notes

sancerre la jouline blanc vielles vignes domaine du carrou

By David Moore
Thursday, January 13th, 2011

carrou la jouline sancerre blanc

A miniscule quantity of this beautiful wine is produced each year from the chalky-clay soil of the village of Bué. This is Sauvignon from very old vines, carefully selected, and vinified without the support of wood. It is rich, multi-layered, very smooth and silky on the palate, with very enticing scents and a long aftertaste. This cuvée is dedicated to Dominique Roger’s great-grandfather Jules and his love of winemaking.

region

Regional History
The Loire River runs 635 miles from the Cévennes Mountains in southeastern France to the Atlantic Coast and flows through (or near) over 60 different appellations. During its long history, the hillsides along the banks provided well-drained soils on which to grow grapes, and the river itself provided a transportation network to outside markets.

Before phylloxera destroyed the vineyards of Sancerre (left bank of the Loire, south of Orléans) in the late 19th Century, the best vineyards were reserved for Pinot Noir, while the white grape Chasselas, produced wines that often found itself shipped to Champagne for blending.

After phylloxera, Sauvignon proved most successful when grafted to American rootstock, and with a rising fashion for white wines, became the dominant variety in the region. The red wines of Sancerre were not even recognized by the AOC until 1959, with a restriction (only lifted in 1982) that limited Pinot to less favorable vineyard sites.

Regional Foods
The lower half of the Loire River, the longest in France, runs through more than forty wine appellations, among them Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume, Vouvray, Chinon, Saumur, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, and Muscadet. This broad valley, noted for its big skies and big chateaux, doesn’t boast an indigenous cuisine. Nevertheless, the rich soil and the varied landscape provide a bounty of raw materials for a cook.

Diverse livestock are raised on local farms; the Atlantic coast and the river itself supply plentiful fish; vegetables and grains are harvested from the large, well-tended kitchen gardens seen everywhere. So one drinks Muscadet with Atlantic oysters and pike au beurre blanc, Vouvray with friture de la loire (fried freshwater fish) or pork rillettes. Rillons, little fists of pork belly, might be enjoyed with a glass of Montlouis. The reds of Chinon and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil often accompany jugged hare, pork with prunes or venison. Restaurants offer baked cod, escargot, frog’s legs and freshwater fish pate with Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre.

© 2007 Moore Brothers Wine Company

Categories : loire, tasting notes
Tags : learning, loire, tasting notes
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