Aug
23

barolo gavarini vigna chiniera elio grasso 2004

By David Moore

This is superb Barolo from one of three crus representing three different vineyard sites on the Grasso estate. The Gavarini and, more specifically, the Vigna Chiniera is found closest to Elio’s beautiful home and cellar.

Given the sandy predisposition of the soil, the Chiniera produces a lean but aromatically complex Barolo. As one would expect from Monforte d’Alba, this is a majestic and tannic expression of Barolo and therefore quite long-lived. Enjoy especially with game, aged cheeses from the region or as a classic vino da meditazione after the meal.

region

Regional History
The wines of Piemonte are noted as far back as Pliny’s Natural History. Due to geographic and political isolation, Piemonte was without a natural port for most of its history, which made exportation treacherous and expensive. This left the Piemontese with little incentive to expand production.

Sixteenth-century records show a mere 14% of the Bassa Langa under vine – most of that low-lying and farmed polyculturally.

In the nineteenth century the Marchesa Falletti, a French woman by birth, brought eonologist Louis Oudart from Champagne to create the first dry wines in Piemonte. Along with work in experimental vineyards at Castello Grinzane conducted by Camilo Cavour – later Conte di Cavour, leader of the Risorgimento and first Prime Minister of Italy – this was the birth of modern wine in the Piedmont.

At the heart of the region and her reputation are Alba and the Langhe Hills. This series of weathered outcroppings south of the Tanaro River is of maritime origin and composed mainly of limestone, sand, and clay known as terra bianca. In these soils – located mainly around the areas of Barolo and Barbaresco – the ancient allobrogica, now nebbiolo, achieves its renowned fineness and power.

Regional Foods
Piedmontese cuisine is heavily influenced by French culture; rich foods with bechamel, mayonnaise, and reduction sauces are often featured. The cuisine is highly localized and seasonal-vegetable varieties are abundant in the south bordering Liguria.

Piemonte has its own distinct breed of cow descended from the Auroch and Zebu breeds. The meat they provide is unique and often served as carpaccio. This distinctly flavored beef is also braised or roasted.

Local pastas include tagliatelle and ravioli stuffed with local vegetables, cheese and meats. White truffles are the most famous and expensive regional specialty, and are often shaved over appetizers or served à la carte in thin slices. Typical cheeses include Castelmangno, Gorgonzola, Fontal, Fontina, Bra and Robiola-Piedmontese.

© 2007 Moore Brothers Wine Company

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