Mar
05

barbera d’asti superiore vigneti della val sarmassa la giribaldina 2007

By David Moore

Originally from the northern Italian area of Lombardy, the Colombo family bought the old La Giribaldina farm in 1995. Mariagrazzia, the mother, oversees the winery functions, her husband, Francesco the “business,” and their son Emanuele the vineyards.

The family has restored old, prime vineyard sites in the Valsarmassa Nature Reserve in the commune of Calamandrana, near Asti. The most recent plantings took place in 2003. Currently the family farms 21 acres, and produce about 4,500 cases of artisan Barbera.

The Vignetti della Sarmassa is produced from a mix of old and young vines in the center of the south-facing, hillside vineyard. This is a wine of structure and density, delicious with earthy roasts of game birds and smoked meats. It has long-term aging potential.

region

Regional History
The wines of Piemonte are noted as far back as Pliny’s Natural History. Due to geographic and political isolation, Piemonte was without a natural port for most of its history, which made exportation treacherous and expensive. This left the Piemontese with little incentive to expand production.

Sixteenth-century records show a mere 14% of the Bassa Langa under vine – most of that low-lying and farmed polyculturally. In the nineteenth-century the Marchesa Falletti, a French woman by birth, brought eonologist Louis Oudart from Champagne to create the first dry wines in Piemonte. Along with work in experimental vineyards at Castello Grinzane conducted by Camilo Cavour – later Conte di Cavour, leader of the Risorgimento and first Prime Minister of Italy – this was the birth of modern wine in the Piedmont.

While many of the DOC appellations designated Asti are contiguous or overlap those of Alba, their character is quite distinct. The soils here are heavier and the terrain gentler, producing wines of a suppler, less aggressive nature. While its reputation followed the international proliferation of Asti Spumante, reds, particularly Barbera, are the basis of most family winemaking traditions in Asti.

Regional Foods
Piedmontese cuisine is heavily influenced by French culture; rich foods with béchamel, mayonnaise, and reduction sauces are often featured. The cuisine is highly localized and seasonal – vegetable varieties are abundant in the south-bordering Liguria.

Piemonte has its own distinct breed of cow descended from the Auroch and Zebu breeds. Their distinctly flavored beef is unique and often served as carpaccio, braised or roasted.

Regional pastas include tagliatelle and ravioli stuffed with local vegetables, cheese and meats. White truffles are the most famous and expensive regional specialty, and are often shaved over appetizers or served à la carte in thin slices. Typical cheeses include Castelmangno, Gorgonzola, Fontal, Fontina, Bra and Robiola-Piedmontese.

© 2008 Moore Brothers Wine Company

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